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  • hat gives life to the fields ●of Egypt” The “Tombs of the Kings” from ●the top of the Libyan range, to which I▓ climbed above the plain of Theb▓es 219“Yes,” I answered. He drew▓ a card from his pocket and scribbled on it ▓two fant

  • astic Arabic characters. “T▓ake the third-class coach,” he said, hand●ing me the pass.“This covers my division;● but

  • you might drop off in Beni Suef and look ●about.” Following his advice▓, I halted near noonday at that wind-swept vi●llage.There was no need to m●ake inquiry for the European residents; t▓hey were all duly recorded in the “comrad●es’ Baed

  • eker.” As in Cairo, however, they of▓fered money in lieu of work, and c▓lutched weakly at the nearest support when I ref●u

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sed it.A young Englishman, ▓inscribed in my notes as “Bromley, Pasha, Insp


●ector of Irrigation; quite easy,” gave me eveni▓ng rendezvous on the bank of the canal beyo▓nd the vi



llage.Long after dark he ▓appeared on horseback, attended by two n▓atives with flaming torches, and, bei

lly ●stat


ng ferr●ied across the canal, led the way● towards his dahabeah, anchored● at the shore of the Nile.

ed my case


“I fanci▓ed I’d find something to put you at▓,” he explained, as he turned h▓is horse over to a jet

. “I h



-black groom who popp●ed up out of the darkness, “but I d●idn’t, and the last


train’s gone.I’ll buy yo▓u a ticket to Assiut in the mor▓ning.” “I have a


pass,” I put in. “Oh▓,” said the Englishman, “well, yo▓u’ll put up with

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me here to-night, anyway.” ▓ He led the way across the ga▓ngplank.The change


from the bleak wastes o▓f African sand to this floating palace was● as startling as if Bromley, Pasha, ▓had been possessor of Aladdin’s la●mp.Richly-turbaned servants, in ▓spotless white gowns, sprang forward to gre●et their master; to place a chair for him; to pu●ll off his riding boots and replace th

em with ●slippers; to slip the Cairo daily into his hand●s; and sped noiselessly away to finish the p●reparation of the evening meal.●Had Bromley, Pasha, been a fellow countryman,▓ I might have enjoyed the ple▓asure of his company instead of dining alo●ne in the richly-furnished an●teroom.But Englishmen o

f the● “upper classes” are not noted for their● democratic spirit, and the good inspector, no d●oubt, dreaded the uncouth table manners ▓of a plebeian from half-civiliz▓ed America. Breakfast over,▓ next morning, I returned to the village and dep●arted on the south-bound express.The third-cl●ass coa

ch was densely packed with hu▓ddled natives and their unwieldy cargo; all,● that is, except the bench around▓ the sides, on which a trio of gloomy Ara●bs, denied the privilege of squatting ▓on the floor, perched like fowls on a 220▓roost.The air that swept through th●e open car was as wintry as the Egyptia